Fashion

Adidas’s Greatest Design Resource? Its Own History.

A look inside the brand’s archives offers hints of its latest sneaker, the Deerupt.

A look inside the brand’s archives offers hints of its latest sneaker, the Deerupt.

On the ground floor of a vast, building in Adidas’s Herzogenaurach, Germany, headquarters sits a sneakerhead’s dream: the brand’s archive of over 80,000 shoes, garments, accessories, videos, and technical drawings. Inside the temperature- and climate-controlled space, gray corridors are lined with white boxes, meticulously cataloged, and stored with contents to be handled only by white-gloved fingers. Run and organized by a team of specialists with museum backgrounds, the space is home to items like founder Adi Dassler’s earliest cleats, Muhammad Ali’s signed boxing shoes, and the company’s very first bag design.

For the Adidas Originals design team and its collaborators (yes, Kanye and Pharrell have been here), this isn’t a museum, it’s a resource. “I have to remind my team that it’s a reference,” says Nic Galway, global senior vice president of design for Adidas Originals and Style. “We shouldn’t be afraid to go in and explore, because a look at the archive is better than the internet. Everything in there is innovative, challenging, and, I believe, industry-leading.” Considering the sheer amount of product in Adidas’s history, much of what the Originals team focuses on is timing. “We must never forget timeliness. Knowing just the right moment to bring something back is key.” And it’s something they continue to master.

Inside the Adidas Archive 7
Slideshow
Inside the Adidas Archive
Inside the Adidas Archive

Shoes from the 1960s through the 2000s that employ the grid motif that inspired the Deerupt sneaker.

Shoes from the 1960s through the 2000s that employ the grid motif that inspired the Deerupt sneaker.
Inside the Adidas Archive

A tennis shoe with a mesh upper from the late 1960s.

A tennis shoe with a mesh upper from the late 1960s.
Inside the Adidas Archive

The Adidas Marathon Trainer, one of the last shoes to be developed with founder Adi Dassler before his death in the late 70s. The long distance running sneaker was revolutionary at the time for the stabilizing grid structure on its midsole and outsole.

The Adidas Marathon Trainer, one of the last shoes to be developed with founder Adi Dassler before his death in the late 70s. The long distance running shoe was revolutionary at the time for the grid structure on its midsole.
Inside the Adidas Archive

The Adidas New York, a style that was introduced in the early 1980s. This pair belonged to Portuguese competitive walker Jose Manuel Marques Pereira, who wore them from Lisbon to Paris and then back again.

The Adidas New York, a style that was introduced in the early 1980s. This pair belonged to Portuguese competitive walker Jose Manuel Marques Pereira, who wore them from Lisbon to Paris and then back again.
Inside the Adidas Archive

A style and drawing from the early 80s, utilizing netting on the insole.

A style and drawing from the early 80s, utilizing netting on the insole.
Inside the Adidas Archive

The shoes worn by Christina Obergfoll, who won the silver medal for the javelin throw in the 2012 Olympics.

The shoes worn by Christina Obergfoll, who won the silver medal for the javelin throw in the 2012 Olympics.
Inside the Adidas Archive

A mood board for the Adidas Originals Deerupt sneaker.

A mood board for the Adidas Originals Deerupt sneaker.

For the Deerupt, an Adidas Originals sneaker being unveiled next week, trips to the archive provided the design team with one recurring element that felt quite of-the-moment: the grid. The net-like motif was originally used as an innovative stabilizer for long distance running shoes, and has also been applied distinctively to basketball and street shoes. “When something’s ready to come back,” Galway says, “it’s also then ready to be taken somewhere else.”

During a recent tour of the Adidas archives, Surface got an exclusive look at the archival pieces—ranging from the 1960s to the 2000s—that informed latest innovation of Adidas Originals (which we will be sharing next week). Here, a brief behind-the-scenes look, captured by Surface contributing photographer Ogata.

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